Caleb and Tricia have been here all week, and we have had a hell of a lot of fun. We've visited several restaurants and eaten some outstanding and bizarre food. It's been great to have them, not least because they are familar with Paris and have been able to show us new things that we had not yet found on our own.
On Sunday, because it was Easter, we went to the Jewish quarter (the Marais) for falafel. (This is the only day I did not eat porc.) Of course everything there was hopping, and we had to wait for our table, but it was well worth it. There are two famous falafel places across the street from each other on rue de Rosiers, and we had only been to one of the two, L’As du Falaffel. This time we went to the other one, Mi Do Ma or something like that. It was good, but I think the consensus at the table was that it wasn't quite as good as across the street. I thought their hot sauce was better, and I think they're both fantastic.
Monday, we had off for Easter, and we all went to St. Germain, on the left bank, to a place called Da Rosa (62 rue de Seine). It was raining all day, but Da Rosa's s small restaurant on the second floor had an open table next to the window -- perfect for watching the downpour as we munched on delicious snacks. José Da Rosa sought ingredients for top Paris restaurants before opening his own shop, filled with Spanish hams and cheeses and spices. (There is even a cave in the basement where he ages his ham -- you can go down and see!) Much delicious pork was enjoyed by all -- most of it from the upper thigh.
Tuesday was back to work, and then French lessons, but after our lessons we met C&T at Chez Denise, in the 1st arrondisement, which Tricia has been talking about since we moved to Paris. This restaurant is known for large meaty portions, and feeling adventurous, I ordered a pig's foot. It looks something like this, but instead of smoked, it was coated with dry rub:
Apparently there are 32 bones in a pig's foot, and not much meat, but I like pig skin quite a bit, so I enjoyed the meal. It was like anatomy and dining all rolled into one. Caleb ordered veal kidneys, by accident, really. Out came a pound of what looked like meat chunks in creamy sauce -- it wasn't bad, but I don't think he would order it again. Dennis got a great hanger steak, and Tricia scored an impressive plate of lamb chops. It was loud and raucous and fun. The french fries and grey salt really made the meal.
(Yes, Dennis and I were eating salads for lunch, knowing these dinners were coming.)
Wednesday we went a restaurant recommended by our friend Graham -- Le Bistral, 80 rue Lemercier, in the 17th. It was an excellent French bistro, the best affordable dining experience I've had in Paris. menu on the chalk board, etc. It was only 24 euros for an appetizer, main course, and dessert, all of which were outstanding. I had beef and foie gras terrine to start, a lamb joint with cheesy risotto, and an outstanding plum crumble (think sweet-tart soft nectarines with sugary wafers) that was almost indescribably good. I can't wait to go back there. There were only three choices for each course, so between the four of us we had everything they were offering that night, and it was all fantastic. The bill came to 109 euros for four.
Thursday was a long day. We've been getting less and less sleep as the week wore on, and my schedule was full of meetings. Four hours with our client in the morning, more meetings and work, followed by French lessons (I had to scramble to do the homework beforehand) followed by dinner with Graham and Anais and Caleb and Tricia at La Tete de Goinfre, 16 rue Jacquemont. This is a classic French bistrot with an emphasis on all things hearty (the food is from the Massif Central region of France). Think rosette, confit, leg of lamb, steak, veal, etc. We started with a large plate of sausages: rosettes, andouiette, head cheese, etc. For dinner I had what amounts to a personal sized ham. It was like a ham hock, but the size of a grapefruit. Imagine this on your plate:
Best. Pig. Ever. Soft and fork tender and outstanding flavor. Called jarret de porc, in case you ever get to try it. I could eat it every day. D and I finished the meal with some delicious Calvados (apple liquor) that has an apple trapped inside of the bottle. (For those who have always wondered how it's done, they tie the bottle onto the tree before the apple grows.) 116 euros for six people.
So, that's where we've been all week. Other interesting tidbits: I ordered patio furniture and another easy chair for the living room from IKEA. Apparently they deliver in Europe, though I haven't heard from them when we're supposed to get our stuff. We've had some new students in French class -- a husband and wife from Germany who studied French every day of their vacation in Paris, and a Japanese girl who is studying patisserie at La Cordon Bleu. We continue to learn passive tense, which is fun and useful, and I feel my French improving.
We were going to go to Berlin next weekend to see the Stanley Kubrick exhibit, but I can't seem to get us there for under 450 euros. Even though we have a place to stay (D's cousin has an apartment there that he doesn't use on the weekends) that's a lot of money for one day in a museum. The exhibit closes April 18th, so I'm kinda bummed, but that's the way it goes. (Still, the 450 euros would have bought us a private sleeper car on the night-train, roundtrip. So fun!)
This weekend marks the first in a while with no visitors. I think we will do very little: eat cheap tasty meals from Picard, sleep, do French homework, and maybe try to find our local outdoor farmer's market which we haven't yet done. Looks like we'll have nice weather for it.
Oh, also weird: our Daylight Savings Time shift happened last Sunday, so for the last week we've been 10 hours ahead of SF instead of 9. I guess most of our readers will catch up tomorrow night.
--Aimee
On Sunday, because it was Easter, we went to the Jewish quarter (the Marais) for falafel. (This is the only day I did not eat porc.) Of course everything there was hopping, and we had to wait for our table, but it was well worth it. There are two famous falafel places across the street from each other on rue de Rosiers, and we had only been to one of the two, L’As du Falaffel. This time we went to the other one, Mi Do Ma or something like that. It was good, but I think the consensus at the table was that it wasn't quite as good as across the street. I thought their hot sauce was better, and I think they're both fantastic.
Monday, we had off for Easter, and we all went to St. Germain, on the left bank, to a place called Da Rosa (62 rue de Seine). It was raining all day, but Da Rosa's s small restaurant on the second floor had an open table next to the window -- perfect for watching the downpour as we munched on delicious snacks. José Da Rosa sought ingredients for top Paris restaurants before opening his own shop, filled with Spanish hams and cheeses and spices. (There is even a cave in the basement where he ages his ham -- you can go down and see!) Much delicious pork was enjoyed by all -- most of it from the upper thigh.
Tuesday was back to work, and then French lessons, but after our lessons we met C&T at Chez Denise, in the 1st arrondisement, which Tricia has been talking about since we moved to Paris. This restaurant is known for large meaty portions, and feeling adventurous, I ordered a pig's foot. It looks something like this, but instead of smoked, it was coated with dry rub:
Apparently there are 32 bones in a pig's foot, and not much meat, but I like pig skin quite a bit, so I enjoyed the meal. It was like anatomy and dining all rolled into one. Caleb ordered veal kidneys, by accident, really. Out came a pound of what looked like meat chunks in creamy sauce -- it wasn't bad, but I don't think he would order it again. Dennis got a great hanger steak, and Tricia scored an impressive plate of lamb chops. It was loud and raucous and fun. The french fries and grey salt really made the meal.
(Yes, Dennis and I were eating salads for lunch, knowing these dinners were coming.)
Wednesday we went a restaurant recommended by our friend Graham -- Le Bistral, 80 rue Lemercier, in the 17th. It was an excellent French bistro, the best affordable dining experience I've had in Paris. menu on the chalk board, etc. It was only 24 euros for an appetizer, main course, and dessert, all of which were outstanding. I had beef and foie gras terrine to start, a lamb joint with cheesy risotto, and an outstanding plum crumble (think sweet-tart soft nectarines with sugary wafers) that was almost indescribably good. I can't wait to go back there. There were only three choices for each course, so between the four of us we had everything they were offering that night, and it was all fantastic. The bill came to 109 euros for four.
Thursday was a long day. We've been getting less and less sleep as the week wore on, and my schedule was full of meetings. Four hours with our client in the morning, more meetings and work, followed by French lessons (I had to scramble to do the homework beforehand) followed by dinner with Graham and Anais and Caleb and Tricia at La Tete de Goinfre, 16 rue Jacquemont. This is a classic French bistrot with an emphasis on all things hearty (the food is from the Massif Central region of France). Think rosette, confit, leg of lamb, steak, veal, etc. We started with a large plate of sausages: rosettes, andouiette, head cheese, etc. For dinner I had what amounts to a personal sized ham. It was like a ham hock, but the size of a grapefruit. Imagine this on your plate:
Best. Pig. Ever. Soft and fork tender and outstanding flavor. Called jarret de porc, in case you ever get to try it. I could eat it every day. D and I finished the meal with some delicious Calvados (apple liquor) that has an apple trapped inside of the bottle. (For those who have always wondered how it's done, they tie the bottle onto the tree before the apple grows.) 116 euros for six people.
So, that's where we've been all week. Other interesting tidbits: I ordered patio furniture and another easy chair for the living room from IKEA. Apparently they deliver in Europe, though I haven't heard from them when we're supposed to get our stuff. We've had some new students in French class -- a husband and wife from Germany who studied French every day of their vacation in Paris, and a Japanese girl who is studying patisserie at La Cordon Bleu. We continue to learn passive tense, which is fun and useful, and I feel my French improving.
We were going to go to Berlin next weekend to see the Stanley Kubrick exhibit, but I can't seem to get us there for under 450 euros. Even though we have a place to stay (D's cousin has an apartment there that he doesn't use on the weekends) that's a lot of money for one day in a museum. The exhibit closes April 18th, so I'm kinda bummed, but that's the way it goes. (Still, the 450 euros would have bought us a private sleeper car on the night-train, roundtrip. So fun!)
This weekend marks the first in a while with no visitors. I think we will do very little: eat cheap tasty meals from Picard, sleep, do French homework, and maybe try to find our local outdoor farmer's market which we haven't yet done. Looks like we'll have nice weather for it.
Oh, also weird: our Daylight Savings Time shift happened last Sunday, so for the last week we've been 10 hours ahead of SF instead of 9. I guess most of our readers will catch up tomorrow night.
--Aimee
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